Nostalgic Hollywood

Leave the power, glitz, and traffic of Miami behind and meander north along US 1, past the densely developed city of Aventura, the big-box stores of Hallandale Beach, and Gulfstream Park, and you will find a little taste of old South Florida in east Hollywood.

As you travel up US 1, also known as Federal Highway, you will reach Pembroke Road, the dividing line between Hallandale and the City of Hollywood. Pembroke road is also an exit off I-95 if you choose a faster route. On the SW corner of Pembroke road and US 1 is the former Hollywood Dog Track, now The Big Easy Casino. A little farther north are motels from the 1940s and ’50s that remain close to their original appearance. Richard’s Motel occupies most of the block on the east side of US 1 and advertises discounts for construction workers and long-term stays. Richard’s is the hotel most locals can recommend. Reservations often need to be booked months in advance because Canadian snowbirds fill many of the rooms from January through March.

Scattered along US 1 is an assortment of pizza parlors, barbecue joints, Mexican eateries and, in true 1990s South Florida fashion, grilled chicken restaurants. Hollywood is refreshingly unpretentious, with tattoo parlors, car washes, smoke shops, and dollar stores tucked between the vintage motels and restaurants. One convenience US 1 is missing is the concentration of family-run businesses, such as tailors, knife sharpeners, shoe repair shops, and other convenient services more common in Miami communities. For more of those, head several blocks west to Dixie Highway. Although more industrial, West Dixie highway has useful services.

A variety of Eastern European markets on both sides of Federal Highway just north and south of Pembroke Road are a delight to explore. They carry imported cheeses and other specialty foods that are difficult to find in conventional supermarkets. Their wine selections extend beyond the usual offerings from France, Italy, and South America to include selections from countries such as Ukraine, Lebanon, Israel, and Bulgaria. Pickled and smoked fish, borscht, fresh breads, blinis, beef stroganoff, and a variety of prepared salads are among the ready-to-eat foods available. Many employees and regular customers speak Russian, Ukrainian, Romanian, or other Eastern European languages. The produce is fresh. While there are few organic options, the prices are excellent.

Downtown Hollywood, which stretches along Hollywood Boulevard between US 1 and Dixie Highway and extends five blocks to the north and south, offers restaurants that reflect the city’s diverse heritage. You will find authentic Greek, Irish, Romanian, Mexican, and Indian cuisine, among many other choices. Downtown has no national retail chains such as Gap, Victoria’s Secret, or Chico’s and no traditional department store anchor. However, the atmosphere is welcoming, parking is plentiful, prices are reasonable, and there is little attitude.

If you travel east on Hollywood Blvd towards the beaches, you will see the lovely Mediterranean revival homes from the 1920’s and post World War 2 bungalows from the 1940’s along the boulevard. Take note that Hollywood still has many coconut palms which you will see scattered throughout neighborhoods east of US 1. When you reach the Intercoastal, the Hollywood drawbridge is high enough to give you a view of the Historic Hollywood Beach Resort Hotel currently under renovation. There are many parking opportunities along A1A, leaving you within a short walking distance of the notorious Hollywood Broadwalk and Margaritaville Bandshell. Stroll, bike or skate along the wide paved walkway which stretches 2.5 miles along the Atlantic Ocean and has a designated lane for people using wheels. Enjoy the Latin cafes, souvenir and ice cream and bike rental shops along the way. Colorful pastel painted wooden staffed lifeguard stands line the beach so you can feel safe and secure taking a dip in the Ocean. Most buildings on Hollywood Beach are less than 4 stories, which creates a quaint atmosphere.

When you need a change of pace from Miami, take a day trip to East Hollywood for a different energy and Old South Florida charm. There is nothing trendy or high fashion about Hollywood but if you are nostalgic for a simpler time, it may leave you smiling.

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Jennifer Dewsnap Shipley

Jennifer Dewsnap Shipley has lived and worked in South Florida for 35 years, after moving from New York City. She has published in professional journals and gardening newsletters and has been writing fictionalized short stories for 7 years. A lover of animals and humanity, her stories often find hope in everyday interactions.